boxes, boxes, boxes

Quandaries of a box.

Here's my first box. You've probably already read about it. This is the box I want to take with me. This is the box I heavily researched and worked hard on. This box is my baby. This box has highly inappropriate steel snipe hinges that I made myself from cotter pins from Tractor Supply but also has hand forged handles and a hasp. I have yet to put them on, but I've been a little busy.

The plus side of the jolly green giant is that it
a. quite possibly could have held everything, clothing wise at least, except for the cloak which would have been spread on my bed
b. was period appropriate

Alas, the JGG does not fit easily into my current vehicle. I drive a coupé, which for the purposes of this hobby, or really, anything else except being youthful and free, is useless.

So. Smaller boxes. After building JGG I decided against trying to go from scratch again. It was just to much of a pain. There's not time, no space, and I don't have the proper tools. Not to mention the right amount of clamps. Not to mention my income. And migraines. We won't talk about that. Let's just say rock and hard place.

At my first event, of which I have no pictures because I brought only my phone and we were in the middle of a National Forest [and guess what! There is no cell reception in the middle of a National Forest! And iPhones don't have super power save mode like 'droids! :D >:( ] someone had a painted dome top box with canvas over the dome. This, I thought, had distinct potential. No muss, no fuss, no why is there an EXIT sign in pieces on my bench [I wish I was making this up...].

To the craft store with the coupons et voilà.

you can't actually find a picture of the chest I bought online for some strange reason... you can only go to A.C. Moore, in person, and buy it, but if you search at Home Depot, they have a fair approximation for $40.

the home depot chest, not to be confused with the one I bought, which you can't find a picture of online. it's like it doesn't exist. weird. Also mine retails for $10 less. And I had a coupon for 25% off. Um, yay.

I can see why that person chose to cover the top with canvas. Mine probably didn't need it but hey. Better safe than sorry. The huge perks of being a person that sews include having scrap canvas laying around, so I had a piece of navy blue canvas that I coated with polycrylic and more or less trimmed to size, allowing a little for tucking under. A trip to the small local hardware store and I got slightly more appropriate brass hinges and some 'soldier blue' milk paint. Milk paint is VOC free, so with the migraines, its fabulous. No fumes, I don't get sick.

After the monsoon reenactment of 2015 the first event of the year, I decided adding skids to the bottom might not be a bad idea. My mother and I were at the Carnegie Museum of Art and took especial interest in the bottoms of trunks and chests so I know it wasn't totally out of the ordinary for a trunk to have feet or runners of some kind. And seriously, this sucker has a bottom made of 3/16ths ply if it's lucky so no way I'm setting it directly in wet grass or mud. And yes, I know the bottom skids aren't blue. It's been raining here to beat the band- I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the tung oil and polycrylic took. Some things are best left to wait until it is a bit dryer.

It just doesn't have a hasp - okay, it did have a hasp, a very Asian style hasp which would have been cool if it had been stamped with Asian symbols instead of a bald eagle... guys? The lack of hasp bothers me for travelling purposes but meh. One less thing taking up space in the tent.

lighting the way

Lanterns. So. Much. Fun.
Except of course, when you have your first event coming up, and you were an obsessively prepared girl scout and you think to yourself  'But wait... how will I see in the dark?'

For after hours there is the obvious flashlight but we all know how hard it is to be digging around for something and not have both hands free. Head lamp you say. Yes, but do you know how easy it is to blind people with those? I made a solar lantern the hard way by galvanizing a solar stake that is light sensitive [on/off depending whether there is light or not] and hot glued the cap to a wide mouth jar band. It now lives in my mother's bathroom window as a nightlight. Not even kidding. My friends and I found premade small mouth solar lantern lights at the craft store that have an on/off switch...  Because when there are small children and tired, stumbly adults about, who wants to leave a line of FLAMING luminaries around your worldly possessions? That's right. No one does.

This still didn't solve the problem of a period appropriate lighting device.

Example A, also known as a barn lantern is period appropriate. It is to my liking and would suit my personal proclivity to knock things over and break them at any moment.

It costs an entire day's pay in my present income bracket before taxes and shipping. That would be a no. It's beautiful, but I need that money for other things right now.

The girl scouts didn't really teach you how to do anything handy, at least, my troop didn't. Maybe that's changed...? In any case. I found another man's blog. He's from Utah, and he made similar lanterns, and had some enlightening photographs on his blog. So I thought. Why not. I'm handy with this sort of thing. 

Let me first preface this with I have little to no idea what I'm actually doing, or rather, I don't really have the tools at my disposal to do things with. This lantern is about 11 1/2" tall. About. There are no cabinetry making specs here. I used a pine 1x4 from Lowes or Home Depot from the nice section, 4' x 1/2' long. The door/back are about 2 inches shorter than the top crest of the lantern. As I have absolutely no idea how to make a candle pan from tin/aluminum sheet, I used a black candle holder from Ikea, and had to cut grooves for it on all sides after the fact so it would fit in the lantern cavity. It fits snugly, so I have no fear of it sliding out or tipping over. It's also black. I suppose if I'd have picked up the brass one with a loop at SalvAl I could have made that work, too.

As you can see from this top picture, there are two horizontal grooves cut out on the door near the cavity of the lantern. I tried to set snipe hinges like the ones in the picture above [and it failed miserably], but mine would have been 18 gauge aluminum wire because again. Money. Working with what I have. However, I messed up the mechanics of the hinge and should have set the loop on the outside of the door, not the inside. I was also in a hurry to get this done.

That said, the lantern has extra holes in it that are covered up by period appropriate leather strap hinges. I have no idea where we got this piece of leather but we had it laying around the house and no one was laying claim to it so I commandeered it for this project. If you have no idea what you're doing, nail the strap/screw the hinge onto the door first. Trust me.
Once the door was on the the little tab nailed in with an OBVIOUSLY APPROPRIATE NAIL, I discovered that the door sticks. I tried to shave off suspected sticky places with my furniture chisels but no luck. There is the addition of a leather tab to help get the door open while I sort that mess out with files and rasp and sandpaper.
The windows voids were cut out with a drill and cleaned up with a chisel and a router, then the rabbet for the window was made with a router and cleaned up with the chisels. I made the stripping for the widows out of what is referred to as 'fill it' strip, but with the humidity in our basement, felt safer nailing it in with brass brads. Most of them split on the ends, but they are stuck in there. One of the panes of glass cracked on me while I was driving nails, so it was back to the store for another custom cut of glass [I had thought of just getting 2x3 picture frames, so it would be easy to replace the glass if it broke, but silly me, I marked the wrong cut lines and then drove the drill into the wrong place without thinking at 9PM after a long day at work...]

The 'tin' lid is actually a piece of 8"x4" chimney flashing, which is deceptive for someone who doesn't know what they are looking for because it's actually 8"x8", but it's folded in half down the middle. I punched it myself with a claw hammer and a set of 'wood carving chisels' from Harbor Freight on a piece of scrap pine. No one is carving wood with those kiddos, believe me, I tried. Get some Flexcuts or something, but for this application, punching aluminum sheet, the "wood carving chisels" were perfect.
The exterior of the lantern was finished with with a homemade mixture of food safe beeswax and mineral oil because again, it's what I had. And also, what I could find at the time.

And then, and then there are those times you walk into the store and suddenly you see...

And you think to yourself 'what?!'

I had this ripped apart and turned into a more, shall we say, appropriate accoutrement in four hours. Four. Hours.

It doesn't have a candle holder and I can't find my pillar candles but details. It's done. I pried the mesh and framing out with a chisel, had glass measured at the hardware store (pried off the top, broke the top, messed up the back up top, made a second back up top) purchased dowel rods, drilled holes in the  (new) lid the same side as the dowel. Drilled matching holes in the interior base of the lantern for the dowels to fit into, as close to the corner as possible. Fit the glass into the door and secured temporarily with leftover strip bits from the mesh (I'll use ripped strips of fill it trim later) fit the pins of the door back in and secured it into the opening. Secured the glass into the frames, slid the dowels into the slots in the base of the lantern and the new lid, nailed down the aluminium cover to the top and cut and fit a new handle out of coat wire, into a hole drilled into the lantern body, not the lid. Voilà. 

The lantern on the top would have cost me $65 ish dollars, the one above $40ish? By making them myself I think I saved $75.

Field tests are this weekend!!

pockets

yay pockets.

The Victoria and Albert Museum did a great write up about pockets, and as I was reading it, I wondered, but why do the women have a separate pocket and the men don't? My friend's conjecture is that because women were considered property, and buttons were not only a symbol of wealth but also used as money, why would you give money to your property. Women weren't worth it. And with a wage discrepancy of $.75 a woman earns to every $1 a man earns, women still aren't considered worth it.

forays into the 1750's

I'm officially [again] a probationary member of a reenacting group that I'd begun joining as a college student.  While I've found plenty of information on clothing [I did a stint as a costumer after all, and most of my friends sew], I'm coming up so short in the furniture department.

You know who loves to kit themselves out? Viking reenactors and the SCA. For the purposes of portraying the French and Indian War, I have to be a little more specific than hitting the entirety of the Dark Ages with the back of a broad sword.

You know who doesn't like to talk about kitting themselves out? Historical reenactors. What's up with that, guys and gals? Do we not use the internets? I know people sat down to eat in the 1750s. There's evidence of it. I draw your attention to extant furniture, woodblock prints, descriptions and paintings that people have based their pieces from. But there aren't pictures of modern people's camp and campaign furniture, or the plans to make it. Unless I just haven't discovered the correct combination of words to search for it under.

I was assured that this blanket chest [PDF link], also known as a 6 board chest, is fine, in fact, maybe a little too fine, for something being hauled out into the 'wild'. The best part about this chest is that I can make it with my chisels from Wood 2 plus the single pipe clamp I can find at present and the router I got for my birthday, as the chest itself does not need to be glued up. I will not have the fancy molding work because I don't have fancier tools other than the ones noted. Friends over at Popular Woodworking make assurances that again, I don't have to be so fru-fru, and also explain why the mechanics of this chest work. If you know anything about how to put a piece of wood furniture together, you know this chest shouldn't work. And yet it does.

Of course, I got part way through hand planning with a dull planer and said nuts on that and made a few phone calls.

What the article writer doesn't say, but you can pick up from the context clues in the pictures, is that he has a shop to die for, with all the thing-a-ma-jigs, hooshmados, and dinglehoppers to keep any person with more time on their hands than they know what to do with happy.  I have one type of hand plane. One. And it's old. This article writer has about six different types of hand planes, and probably several sizes, depending on which one you are looking for. He's also working at an actual wood bench, not a few 2 by 4's bolted together with a piece of quarter inch thick chip ply laid across the top. Not that I'm complaining, but I'm saying that I'm not up to the calibre of this article writer's shop quality. I am saying that it can be done with a fixed base router, an antique hand plane, and an incomplete set of hand chisels. You can do this! Just make sure you also have a boat load of 3 1/2" and larger c clamps, and maybe more than one pipe clamp! Okay, if ther happens to be a mitre saw laying around also, don't say I didn't say it wasn't helpful [how's that for a triple negative?] and do know either a friend with a jointer and wide planer, or the number of someone who can do some mill work for you if all you have is one hand planer. Local cabinetmakers are usually the people to call, but they will charge. 

I do have a circular saw, but without navicable space in the basement to really set up an effective fence, I called up a friend to make some rip and cross cuts on their table saw. A few weeks later, I made a trip to Pittsburgh and visited another friend with an 18" planer and 140" belt sander of amazing [I don't have the correct number, but it was huge and as promised, worked like a charm]

The article promised that this chest could be put up in a few afternoons... I'm not sure what constitutes an afternoon, but I started working on this in January and it's April now and still not done. Granted, I have had a few things going on like a day job and rehersals and weeks long migraines so I have not always been able to work on this project.

Using a hand held router and not hand tools also presents it's own set of issues, like having to set up a fence, as I do not have a router table [let's add that to the wish list...] Since the dados go from end to end of the side panels and box legs, it was fairly easy to set up the pieces side by side, clamp them together with a fence on the guide lines and route away to the specified depth. Ditto for the rabbets across the bottom of the front and back panels. I set up my fence with an 8 foot board, clamped it down and routed away. Let's talk about getting things done in a few afternoons now...

Setting up fences was the most difficult part of the process. I borrowed a lot of c clamps from my dad. I also ended up borrowing my parents man power, as we own 3 bar clamps, which was not enough to hold the box together and keep it from popping apart in other key areas at the same time...

And then one of the feet decided to sliver off when I was tapping the side into place with the box bottom. There are now two Kregg cover pegs and two 90 degree dowels pegged into the foot to keep it in place. 

As you can see from this picture, the box has finally been assembled! My fingers are fully extended at the bottom of the box and my elbow is hitting the top lip. I'm an average size woman. The till went together with minimal trouble, though there is a squeak coming from one end when you open it. Still trying to sand that out. And yes, I know you're supposed to do all the cut work first an paint last but the paint is burning a hole in the paper bag. It's bayberry green. 

The article writer mentioned the the original chest this plan had been based from utilized snipe hinges, which I priced at $40 a pair. A quick web search told me that I could make my own from cotter pins, which while not materially historically accurate is functionally so. There was a very helpful article from Peter Follansbee about setting snipe hinges, or gimmels which we referred to several times Sunday afternoon as we made and set the snipe hinges into the box. The pine began tearing out in the box interior as we set the hinge pins, so to help hide the damage and reinforce the hole in the lid, we slipped a washer over the pin before splitting and clinching them.  

Good wool is hard to find

I picked this up at the second hand store for $14. No tags, and I haven't done a burn test to see if it's 100% wool, but gee golly is it toasty, and my alergic to wool friends itch when they touch it.
We have wool blankets from my grandmother's estate, the kind from the 50's with the satin blanket binding and pastel colors that just won't quite pass 1750's muster.
For resons as yet unknown to me, herringbone would have been used as a blanket, but not apparel. Maybe because a plain weave was easier to set up than a herringbone, thus making plain weave cheaper and herringbone dearer...? Again I don't know.